After fleeing the Spanish Civil War in 1936, Basque designer Cristóbal Balenciaga began a fashion house in Paris. There, his love for the ‘monastic and austere aesthetics characteristic of Catholic convents’ merged with French haute couture standards. Balenciaga’s fashion house pivotally influenced Chanel, Hubert de Givenchy, Christian Dior, and many celebrities, including Audrey Hepburn. Balenciaga thus helped reinvent (Spanish) black as modern aristocratic women’s couture hue of choice. In 2019, curator Eloy Martínez de la Pera dazzled audiences in Madrid’s Thyssen-Bornemisza National Museum with an exhibition explicitly demonstrating the link between Balenciaga’s epoch-making designs and 16th-century Habsburg court fashions.
Black Cocktail Dress for Balenciaga
Dutch designer Catharina Kruysveldt-de Mare confectioned this cocktail dress for Balenciaga in Paris, 1951. Balenciaga was deeply influenced by Habsburg courtly fashions. Catharina Kruysveldt-de Mare, ‘Dress with a Tie Belt’, (c.1951–2, Rijksmuseum, Amsterdam; public domain).
Adrian Masters
Further reading
- Bycroft, M., and S. Dupré (eds.) (2019) Gems in the Early Modern World: Materials, Knowledge & Global Trade, 1450–1800 (London: Palgrave).
- Domínguez, R. (1965) Historia de las esmeraldas de Colombia (Bogotá: Gráficos Ducal).
- Forsythe, H. (2003) The Cheapside Hoard (London: Museum of London).
- Giuliani, G., M. Chaussidon, H.-J. Schubnel, D.H. Piat, C. Rollion-Bard, C. France-Lanord, D. Giard, D. de Narvaez, and B. Rondeau (2000) ‘Oxygen isotopes and emerald trade routes since antiquity’, Science, vol. 287, 631–3.
- Jaffer, A. (2017) Treasures of the Mughals and the Maharajas: The al-Thani Collection (Milan: Skira).
- Keene, M. (2001) Treasury of the World: Jewelled Arts of India in the Age of the Mughals (London: Thames & Hudson).
- Lane, K. (2010) Colour of Paradise: The Emerald in the Age of Gunpowder Empires (New Haven/ London: Yale University Press).
- Meen, V.B., and A. D. Tushingham (1968) Crown Jewels of Iran (Toronto: University of Toronto Press).
- Otero Muñoz, G., and A.M. Barriga Villalba (1948) Esmeraldas de Colombia (Bogotá: Banco de la República).
- Peretti, A., and T. Falise (2017) Magnificent Green: On the Trail of the Legendary Colombian Emerald (Hong Kong: Gem Research Swisslab).
- Schmetzer, K., G. Martayan, J. Guillermo Ortiz, and A.R. Blake (2018) ‘Rediscovery and history of the Chivor emerald mines: between legends and reality (1880–1970)’, InColor Special: Emerald, vol. 40, 58–63.
- Sinkankis, J. (1981) Emerald and Other Beryls (Radnor, PA: Chilton Book Co.).